Posted on April 15, 2010 by jason
There is no lack of stimulus in this town – today we found a carnival.
It’s pretty much the same carnival fare you would find back in the US. Even the music is the same. For some reason they were blaring 80′s euro new-wave hits (Erasure, Fine Young Cannibals, Depeche Mode) and we just couldn’t get enough. And I just can’t get enough. And I just can’t get enough. And I just can’t get enough.
One ride in particular was worth watching for a little while – El Disco Fiebre. The ride itself is the usual giant centrifuge that makes people sick. The twist here is that the two yahoos that operate the ride actually get inside and do a whole routine in the middle of the thing while it’s spinning. They dance and taunt the single ladies to get up and do a jig with them while the ride is going. One guy jumps up in the air every now and then to the amazement of the crowd. Eventually, they become exhausted and have to sit down with the riders. Nobody on the ride really looked like they were having any fun, but people kept lining up since these guys were such a spectacle. OSHA representatives were not present.
Bode’s favorite ride seemed to be the Wacky Worm. The little roller coaster that looked suspiciously like the same one we rode at Carnaval in La Paz. No seat belts required. If your child is too small to sit on the ride, you can just hold him in your lap.
Also, if anyone is going to be in Fredericksburg, TX this weekend for the VW Texas Classic, please track down our buddy Wild Bill and tell him “Howdy” for us. He’s driving all the way from Pensacola in “Rusty,” the former rust-bucked we saw back in Florida. He’s been working on it over the winter and now the windshield is actually held in place by metal rather floating than silicone. We love the stripes, but without all the rust and the new paint we’re not sure what he’s going to call it now… Blacky? Stripey? Skunk Beard?
Posted on April 9, 2010 by jason
The next morning we met Ellen, Tony, Francesca and Liberty. They’re a really nice family who was heading north after a loop around Mexico and a little dip into Belize and Guatamala. All the kids were excited to have a new playmate and they spent the entire morning and afternoon sharing toys, books, and playing hide and seek.
We had planned on spending the day in town and Ellen and Tony had planned on leaving Guanajuato, but the kids made the decisions today.
Tony is a diplomat from the UK and they had some pretty interesting stories to tell over the past eight years of traveling. They’ve lived in the Falkland Islands, where the girls grew tired of being chased by emperor penguins. More recently, they lived in (where else) Canada, where everyone grew tired of being cold.
He’s managed to take a year of sabbatical for a brief trip around the Americas and they aren’t’ sure where they will end up next. Hopefully, Italy, but likely back in the U.K. Argentina is high on the list.
They have a storage space back in the UK – paid for by the government and now 8 years old – where they are hesitant to view the contents of what was once important to them. Imagine creating a time capsule of things your thought important and locking them away for almost a decade.
After a few afternoon cervezas (us, not the kids) we all headed down the hill to do some more exploring. They showed us a little bit of a shortcut to town down a long tunnel we would have never entered. It’s a little dark and wet, but it beats walking farther in the glaring sun.
We bummed around town some more and did more of nothing in particular. Tony wanted to take the funicular to the top of a hill for a view of the town, so we tagged along. We somehow missed the funicular and ended up walking all the way. Again, we were reminded of Italy and enjoyed the rigorous stroll through the narrow alleyways and sidewalks winding their way to the top.
There is a statue of El Pipila (Monumento a La Pipila) holding his torch high above the town. In September of 1810 he donned a slate shield and torched the walls of the Alhodiga gates (where the Spanish were hiding) allowing Hidalgo’s forces to win the first victory of the independence movement. Things didn’t end up well for Hidalgo or Allende (and presumably for El Pipila) as they were killed about 6 months later and their heads hung for 10 years here in town. Of course, this only incited the locals and kept the memory of the martyrs alive. The skulls are on display in Mexico City…maybe we’ll visit them.
!Viva Mexico!
After all this exploring, we were hungry and trekked back to one of the many squares to dine al fresco. I’ve developed a taste for Enchiladas Mineras. It’s a local dish (hearty, for miners) with enchiladas mole, piled high with grilled potatoes and onion over them, then crumbled cheese and creme… then roasted chicken parts on top of that. Just start from the top and work your way down. It’s awesome. This is my third time to order it in three days.
As best I can figure, this is Mexico’s San Francisco. But, the streets of S.F. have got nothing on Guanajuato. Steeper slopes, cobblestones, underground tunnels, crazier taxis, drunker tourists, more mysterious bars, wackier history, warmer days… warmer nights. Tubas. All good stuff.
Also, if you just can’t get enough of us, here we are again on another episode of Volks Brothers TV. The first 10 minutes or so is on camper vans and we’ve got a tiny cameo.
Posted on April 8, 2010 by jason
We’ve got no real plan for Guanajuato. We’ve been wanting to take some Spanish classes, so we’ll look into that. We love the idea of finding a little casa for a few weeks and just immersing ourselves in the city, so we’ll look into that. Today, we’re just going to wander around and have a closer look.
The city is visually stunning. The landscape, the architecture, the colors, the city itself all remind us of somewhere in Italy. Tuscany or the Italian Riviera. We can walk everywhere and get lost up some small alley on the hillside and have a great time doing nothing. We’re officially on Mexican Time.
On the streets, the action is delirious and alive. The cars zoom up and down narrow single-lane streets and in and out of tunnels that appear every few blocks. Sidewalks are packed with locals weaving between vendors. Everything and everyone is animated. Closer to the edge of town, there is more breathing room and burros are hauling supplies up the surrounding steep hills.
After a day of accomplishing absolutely nothing except eating and wandering, we haul ourselves back up the hill to our campsite. We’re about 15 minutes (going downhill) outside of Centro and the hike back up takes our last bit of energy. It was easy to forget that we are at 6000 ft until now.
We pop open our laptop hoping to pick up some free wireless from the heavens, and sure enough there are signals from above. But… even Jesus secures his router.
We content ourselves with lounging in the cool mountain air and watching the lights twinkle across the hill. Everything echoes up from the valley below: raucous conversations we can’t understand, engines straining up the hills, countless animals, trumpets, tubas, drums… This is Mexico, and the auditory anarchy is all part of our temporary residence in Guanajuato. Everyone – including us – is outside enjoying the night.
