Posts Tagged boondock

The Road to Caraz

Posted on March 16, 2011 by 6 Comments

There are several different ways to get to Caraz from Huanchaco. All of them involve going off road and up into the mountains – we couldn’t go wrong.  We took the route from Santa (just north of Chimbote).

We haven’t mentioned it before, but we’ve been stopped by the police many times in Peru. I’d guess 10. We could have been pulled over another 10 times, but I’ve developed quite a skill of pretending not to see the officer and just keep driving through the checkpoint – so far no one has pursued. It’s the guys that step out into the road in front of the bus that get me to stop.

Most have been polite. They want to see our documentos, but it’s unclear how many of them really look at the papers closely. A few have them have been sticklers about seguro - insurance. It’s required in Peru, but it doesn’t appear that foreigners can actually buy it – the system is set up for Peruvian plated vehicles only (or so we’ve been told.)  Some of the police are keen to this fact and eager (we hear) to catch a tourist without it. The penalty is impounding the vehicle, fines, etc. Or (so we’ve been told), some guys will forget all about it for a quick payment on the spot.

I can’t verify the last bit, as all but one police officer has seemed to have legitimate intentions. Still, when they ask we just show them our expired U.S. insurance. It’s worked so far, except for one guy really who gave us a hard time and wanted to impound the vehicle. Eventually he got tired of us and let us go.

Anyway, today we only got stopped twice. The first guy wanted to know where we were going and gave us some advice: don’t stop the car and don’t ever walk around anywhere. Muy peligroso. As always, the advice was appreciated, but would make for a very dull trip.

The next guy stopped us right where the pavement ended and wanted to see our papers and asked what we were up to. He held on to the papers and walked away for an uncomfortably long time, but eventually came back and waved us on.

As soon as the pavement ended, things started looking pretty amazing.

We followed the river Santa along a lonely mountain road for quite a while. Generally, the road was just barely the width of the car and made for some fun driving. Narrow rickety bridges. Narrow crumbling tunnels. Fun stuff.

When we finally saw a nice wide spot to pull over and check out the river, we pulled in and took a break. Although it was only 2 in the afternoon and we were only half way to Caraz, I was pretty much done driving. Bode was loving scrambling over all the rocks. Angela was ready for a book.

We spent the afternoon exploring and rearranged the bus to the perfect river-side spot for the evening. I slept like a baby.

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Filed Under: Peru

K85

Posted on March 1, 2010 by 2 Comments

We set out on the dirt roads that go around the East Cape looking for our own secret spot to relax for a few days. We’re not the first, of course, but it’s pretty darn quiet out here.

I have to admit, when I mentioned I saw a VW bus as we passed an arroyo 30 minutes east of San Jose del Cabo, and Jason backed up Red Beard and drove in I was a little skeptical. I mean, let’s just pull in to a dry gulch not on any map or in any book because we saw a Volkswagen? When we pulled in we saw a few guys playing horseshoes, and a bocce set nearby and I knew I had been wrong to hastily judge.

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Eric, ‘the mayor’ of K85 quickly greeted Jason with a boisterous “Get a tan, man!” in a German accent and the rest of the clan came over to welcome us immediately.

Daphne showed us around. Everyone there were friends, some coming to this same arroyo for 26 straight winters. Amazing. I can see why.

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As far as the kid was concerned this place had it all, great beach and sand, big boulders to climb, tide pools, dogs, and surrogate grandparents who didn’t mind a kid playing in their camp. Whales breached and spouted continuously just offshore. Nice.

Two of the women were artists, Frea painted murals at many of the houses in the area, and Maryanne painted whatever she got her hands on. Jordan is a retired history professor and has been coming here for only 23 years. Another couple leaves their orchard in Washington and has wintered here for 26 years.

It’s just boondocking in an arroyo. A sliver of wash between private property on each side.  But, it is kind of magical and has a great energy about it. We can see why everyone keeps coming back. It’s the people, for sure. It wouldn’t be the same if we were there alone.

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A few photos by Bode at the campfire below. Bode still says ‘remember all those nice people at the camp at the beach?’ Yes we do. See ya in a few winters, guys. Oh, and if Bud the dog is reading this, Bode says hi. Sorry we didn’t see you on the way out, he was pretty upset he couldn’t say goodbye.

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And, maybe because of the competitive German tanning, Jason got scorched.

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Filed Under: Baja