Archive for the Nicaragua Category

The Not So Friendly Skies

Posted on August 8, 2010 by 3 Comments

Doug’s guest post!

Disclaimer:  Apologies to all the bodeswell fans out there.  Angela alluded to this story a long time ago, and I’m just blogging about it now.  Let me tell you, maintaining a blog is hard work.  After a “rough” day of lazing around on the beach, exploring volcanoes, traveling for hours on the road in Red Beard, cooling off in cold spring water holes, or attending random rodeos on a patron saint’s feast day, it’s tough to sit down at the end of the day and write a blog and upload photos.  Although there’s plenty of wi-fi available throughout Central America, sometimes there’s a brownout, or the laptop is out of juice, or we can’t get a reliable signal, or we’re simply too busy researching where our next adventure is going to take place.  Hats off to Angela and Jason for keeping their blog updated!

So my flight into Managua was a bit harrowing.  As we make our final approach, things are normal, and I’m excited to step foot in Central America for the very first time.  I peek out the window and recognize two freshwater lakes, and a several huge volcanoes from previous research I’ve done from my guidebooks.

The captain makes his normal, final decent announcement of “we’ll be on the ground shortly.  Flight attendants, please prepare the cabin for arrival.”  So we put up our tray tables, bring our seats forward, etc.  I’m excited that within minutes, I’ll set foot in Central America for the very first time.

However, about 20 minutes goes by, and I notice we pass over the same volcano I saw earlier.  The captain then makes another announcement and says “you may have noticed we’ve been circling Managua in a holding pattern.  We are experiencing some ‘mechanical issues’, and we are unable to land at this time”.  All of us in the cabin kind of looked at each other with confused looks on our faces.  I hear murmurs half jokingly saying things like “I hope this doesn’t have anything to do with the ‘mechanical issues’ we had before we left Miami”.  (Our flight departed late from Miami due to a “maintenance issue”, but we had received the “all clear”, and they made up the time in the air.)  No one’s worried just yet, but I do see a few signs of the cross being made.  The captain, in his cool, calm and collected voice announces “we’re going to attempt to rectify the issue”, and “we appreciate your patience”.

After another 20 minutes, we continue to circle.  The TV monitor in the cabin shows a map with our flight route, and now the yellow line is shows a lot of figure 8s and circles on the screen.  I’m still not quite worried yet, but granted there also haven’t been any updates yet, and the all announcements so far have (I assume) been intentionally vague.

Then the surreal happens.  The captain makes another, somewhat disturbing announcement (still in his calm voice):  “Ladies and gentlemen, we have been unable to rectify the issue.  As a precaution, I’ve requested fire trucks to be on standby on the runway when we land.  This is strictly a precaution, and I’d rather have them there than not at all, so please don’t be alarmed if you see them when we land.”  Then he says “I’m now implementing procedure number blah, blah, blah”, in which he rattled off some unfamiliar numbered code.  He then concludes his announcement with “at this time, please direct your attention to the flight attendants who will now go over some important safety announcements and procedures”.

Immediately, the entire flight crew goes into a very serious emergency mode.  They pull out binders and begin reading and announcing very detailed instructions.  The instructions are procedures for a quick and orderly evacuation as soon as plane lands.

They begin with a very stern “if you are using iPods, you need to turn them off NOW!”  “At this time, please locate an emergency exit that is closest to you.  There are four exits over the wings”.  Then they make that over the wing gesture pointing to the wings, but in a very prominent and serious way.  There’s an intentional, long pause, allowing time for the passengers to think about their nearest exit.  Then they continue, “There are two exits in the rear.”  Again, they make that very prominent gesture pointing to the back of the plane, and again, intentionally pause to let it sink it.

They continue by saying, “when we land, you need to go to the nearest exit in a quick and orderly fashion.  You will then go down the inflatable slide in twos.  You need to remove any sharp objects in your pocket like keys, so as not to puncture the slide.  Take NOTHING with you except the clothes on your back.  Don’t worry about your passport, your hand carry luggage, your camera, etc.  Just leave it stowed, or place it in the seat pocket in front of you.  After sliding down, you will then need to move as quickly as possible away from the plane.”

Holy shit!  This is serious.  This is definitely no joke.  What kind of mechanical issue are we having that we need to evacuate quickly?  I’m thinking, are the landing gear wheels not working?  Are we going to land with the metal fuselage skidding along the concrete runway?  Maybe it will spark and ignite the jet fuel.  Maybe this is why the captain ordered the fire trucks to be on standby.  Maybe that’s why the flight attendants wanted us to move as far away as possible from the plane after we use the emergency slides.

We then go over how to properly brace for impact.  We practice crossing our arms and leaning against the seat in front of us, and make sure our seat belts are as fastened as tight as possible.

People are definitely getting worried now, including myself.  Families are embracing each other, people are praying, some are even crying.  I’m still relatively calm, because the entire flight crew is calm, and even the captain is calm.  These are worse case scenario procedures, and the flight crew keeps indicating these procedures are being done strictly as a precaution.   If they’re not worried, I shouldn’t be worried.  At least that was my logic.  I also think of Captain Sully Sullenburg who landed his plane in the Hudson River, and find some comfort knowing pilots can make emergency landings with good outcomes.

The crew continues to prepare for the emergency landing, and it’s a little bit of a roller coaster for me.  I overhear one concerned passenger and he asks the flight attendant if we are making a land landing, or a water landing. The flight attendant assures him it’s going to be a land landing, but I’m thinking if there are fire trucks, wouldn’t it be better to land in water instead?

Then, a flight attendant goes up and down the aisles asking “who’s traveling alone?”  I raise my hand, and then the flight attendant asks if I’d mind moving to another seat.  There’s a mother and son who are seated separately, and want to sit next to each other.  I move to another seat, and I’m now in the very last row in the aisle directly across from the rear door.

I’m OK with the seat change, because now, I’ll be one of the first people off the plane.  However, I now overhear instructions given to two volunteer passengers who will be the backup door and slide operators.  I guess there needs to be backup people in case the flight attendant, for some reason, can’t make it to that door.  The flight attendant asks the two volunteers, to repeat the steps she’s just read from her binder.  “Step 1, check for fire and smoke through that little round window.  If there is fire and smoke, don’t open the door, and use another exit.  Step 2, if clear, pull this lever to inflate the slide.  Step 3, pull the backup lever if the first lever doesn’t work.”

On one hand, I’m worried about the smoke and fire thing, but on the other hand, it’s good to know there are backup procedures in place.  I assume if the flight attendant passes out from smoke, there will be two backup people to operate the slide.  If the slide fails to inflate, there is even a backup lever.  The redundancy safety procedures calm me a bit.  It’s just like all the safety redundancy when you SCUBA dive.

So we’ve gone through all the emergency procedures now, and the captain makes a final announcement that we’re ready to land.  He indicates we’ll be landing a little faster than normal, and that’s why he wanted to go over all of these safety procedures.

The next 10 minutes seem to last an eternity, and an eerie silence fills the cabin.  Some people curiously close their shades, but I anxiously try to see through open windows how close we are to the ground from the aisle seat I’m in.  We’re getting closer and closer to the ground.  I can see trees, buildings, and roads.  Then we land with a slight, normal sounding bump, but that’s it.  I’m waiting for the “brace for impact” announcement, but there’s nothing.  All of sudden everyone realizes we have just landed safely, and everyone applauds and cheers loudly.  I’m a bit confused and think the applauding is a bit premature.  I’m thinking we’re not out of the woods yet, and that we’ll still need to evacuate when the plane comes to a stop.  I quickly realize, we have landed fine, and there’s no evacuation necessary.  I finally applaud with everyone else.  A teenager a few rows ahead, captures the moment on his camera.  People are hugging each other, laughing, and giving high fives.  I’m still a bit in disbelief and shock.

Then after so many very serious safety announcements and procedures, the flight crew goes back to their normal landing announcements as if nothing had happened.  They start with a simple “Ladies and gentlemen, welcome to Managua”.  There’s a long pause, and we all bust out in collective laughter.  The announcement continues, “local time is 12:45, and current temperature is 85 degrees.  Please remain seated until the plane reaches the gate.”  Everything’s literally “by the book”.  I jokingly imagine in their emergency binders, there’s probably a yes or no flow chart saying something like “did plane land normally?  If yes, continue with normal landing announcements.  If no, continue to page 5.”

So the Rehms have had such an extraordinary adventure already.  I guess it was inevitable for me to start my journey with them with a bang (no pun intended).  It’s funny because my parents were so worried about me traveling within a third world country, but maybe they should have been more concerned about me landing safely in the first place.  In all seriousness though, this experience has made me even more confident about flying.  Rest assured, for those of you who hate or fear flying, take comfort in the fact that the airlines have always had a worse case scenario emergency plan of action.  You just don’t know about it, and hopefully you’ll never hear about it, or ever have to go through this experience as I did.  I found out later the “mechanical issue” was a flap problem.  The flaps weren’t operating properly, and therefore couldn’t slow the plane down as much as the captain wanted.  The landing gear was fine.

As I exited the plane, I made a point to thank the flight crew and the captain.  I was very impressed, and appreciated the professional manner in which this tense situation was handled.  I now have an even greater respect for all flight attendants.  They’re really not just waiters and waitresses in the sky.  They are highly trained professionals in managing large groups of people and keeping them safe.

I disembark from the plane, go through immigration, and claim my baggage.  I see Jason, Angela, and Bode behind the glass with all the other people waiting for their parties to arrive.  Needless to say, they are truly a sight for sore eyes.  Completely clueless about what just transpired, I bring them up to speed, and we head out to Red Beard.  It’s insanely hot and humid.  We drive off into the Nicaraguan countryside, make a quick stop at Volcán Masaya to look down the crater of an active volcano, then head to the Monkey Hut, a great hostel at Lago de Apoya, a beautiful and clean freshwater lake surrounded   by rainforest, for some well earned R & R.  To put it mildly, a very memorable day one is now complete.  I’ve still got several more weeks of adventures still to go.  Benvenidos a Nicaragua y Central America!

Note: Doug also gave notice of his resignation as “guest blogger”.

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Filed Under: Costa Rica, Nicaragua

Numero Ocho

Posted on August 7, 2010 by 4 Comments

We spent a few days in San Juan del Sur just lounging, sipping $1 USD cervezas on the beach, doing laundry and what-not. We met some more really nice folks here and there appears to be a growing expat population in this little surf town.

It’s less than an hour to the Costa Rica border. A few people we met were making their quarterly trip across the border to sit on the beaches, waiting out the mandatory 3 day period, before returning for their next 90 day tourist permit. Getting residency in Nicaragua seems to take a while and requires lawyers and paying all the right people. If you are required to leave the country for a long weekend in Costa Rica every 90 days, I’m not sure why you would hurry.

We finally split and made our way to the border ourselves. Doug got to witness all the border fun we’ve been experiencing over the past few months. This one took 3 hours and was fairly straightforward, but he was still amazed at the ridiculous process.

Approaching the border on the Pan-American highway, you first pass all sorts of trucks lined up for miles on the side of the road until you reach a gate. As usual, lots of eager ‘helpers’ start chasing the vehicle and trying to get our business. We wave them off and the guy at the gate has to inspect our vehicle papers before letting us through. Then, on to the Nicaraguan customs and vehicle permisso office.

Usually, getting the vehicle papers canceled is a pretty simple process, but not this time. First, we have to fill out more paperwork just to get the original paperwork canceled. Then, we have to go find a customs person and a police officer to sign off. This was more difficult than getting the original papers in the first place.

I wandered around the throngs of people getting on and off buses and all the truck drivers looking for the right officials. Each time I see someone who looks official, I go ask for their signature and they tell me I have to find someone else. Eventually, I find the correct customs official and he does one of the more thorough vehicle inspections we’ve had (still not too bad) and he signs off. I still think it’s odd they search so thoroughly when vehicles are leaving the country.

I still couldn’t find the correct police officer (I asked many) and was continually told to wait… he’ll come. One guy said he knew where the officer was and told me to follow him. I go as far as the next set of buildings when he starts walking off towards the jungle and insists I follow him to find the right officer… hmmmm. I turn around and walk back to the bus and continue to wait.

Eventually, the right guy pulls up on a motorcycle and he’s mobbed by all the waiting truckers. He signs everyone’s papers without even looking at them and I return to wait in line for a half hour to get the papers stamped. The helpers have a system where one guys hogs the window while runners come and go with other people’s paperwork. Doug and I ‘get big’ and try to block out the cutters and eventually get up to the window. All that just to cancel my Nicaragua vehicle papers.

Doug had already gotten his exit stamp at the customs office, so we drove towards the Costa Rica entrance about 1 km down the road. But, here the guy doing the final inspection for vehicles leaving Nicaragua tells us we need exit stamps too. I don’t think this is quite right, since our Guatemala stamps for the CA-4 should have us covered (we haven’t gotten any passport stamps of any kind for El Salvador, Honduras, or entering Nicaragua.) He insisted, so we parked and trudged back through the mud to fill out more papers, pay an exit fee, and get our Nicaraguan exit stamps. Doug stayed behind and watched the bus and was very eager to leave by the time we returned. He noticed that some of the characters hanging out around the border aren’t exactly the kind of folks you want to spend too much time with.

Finally, we exit Nicaragua and pull up to the Costa Rica aduana. We all fill out our tourist permits and get our passports stamped. This is the first time since entering the US from Canada that any official actually required that Bode and Angela be present to verify their identity. Next, I buy the mandatory $15 USD insurance and get lots of copies and walk it all across the street to apply for my vehicle permit. This one actually required that I get out my phrasebook and ask some questions. A guy came over to inspect the bus and confiscated our watermelon and carried it over to his office – tough luck. He insisted that we needed to show receipts for Bode’s bike, but relents after fairly little discussion.  It’s a good thing we had a watermelon.

Eventually, he signed off and stamped everything and we are sent to yet another office a few hundred meters down the road. Here, all of our papers and information are entered into an actual computer(!) and I receive my official vehicle paperwork.

In English, I’m told “you must leave Costa Rica in 60 days or you will be in serious trouble!” The papers actually say we get 90 days, but fair enough.

Welcome to Costa Rica… no loitering.

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Filed Under: Costa Rica, Nicaragua

Leaving Ometepe, Heading to the Beach

Posted on August 4, 2010 by 2 Comments

We spent several days on the island of Ometepe. We had purchased tickets for the 11am Monday return ferry, but when we got there no one was in line. We waited a while, then asked the only other car in the area if we were in the right place. They said we were, but after about 10 minutes they drove away. We wandered around for a bit and finally found out that the ferry had mechanical problems and wasn’t running.

We found out about another ferry company with a 12:30 ferry. It was full, but we waited around to make sure. We didn’t make it on, and there weren’t any other ferries with space until the next day. No one knew when our original ferry, the Che Rivera, would be operating again.

Finally, we found out there was a third ferry company with a boat leaving at 3:30 on the other side of the island. After driving up and confirming they had space, we went out for 1 more damn tasty chicken lunch.

After finally getting on the ferry, we discovered it was quite nice. Much nicer than the one we rode over on. It was Dutch and they hadn’t bothered to change any of the signs on it.

We safely arrived on the mainland and made a beeline for the coast. We stayed a couple days in San Juan del Sur, a pretty amazing surf town in southern Nicaragua.

While eating at the pizzeria in town one night, the lights went off. We recollected that the power had gone off every day we had been in Nicaragua. A few minutes later the buzz of a generator kicked on and the restaurant cheered. Within 10 minutes, our lighted pizzeria in the middle of a dark town was like a beacon. People were coming from all over.

We figured we had a pretty good spot. Plus, the thought of going to our hot, dark hotel room with no fan was really unappealing. So, we ordered another bottle of (cold) red wine and kicked back until the power came back on.

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Filed Under: Nicaragua

Rodeo Time!

Posted on August 2, 2010 by 6 Comments

We didn’t have much in the way of food, but scraped together a few meals on the island. One night, it was tuna fish in tortillas. Unfortunately, the bowl fell. Doug and Jason examined what we deemed ‘floor tuna’ and went for the part not touching the ground. I passed.

I told Doug that every day we are stopped at some point by cows or pigs in the road. He didn’t believe us at first and insisted on taking photos every time. He’s since agreed.

The lake water was warm and not very refreshing, but we found Ojo de Agua in the middle of the island. The man at the gate touted the medicinal effects of the water said the average person felt 10 years younger after soaking in it. That is, except for the 100 year old woman who went in and now feels like she’s 40. Well worth the $2 fee. The water was clear and refreshing. We went back the next day, too.

Both days we were hit with the rainstorm while we were there. On day 2 while hanging out in the covered palapa we met Dario and his gang. Dario owns a surf shop at the beach and was here on vacation with his kids and friends. He told us about a festival and rodeo in a town across the island.

We followed them into Moyogalpa. On the way, we stopped for a few photos and the kids chased 2 calves. Then they found a horse. The owner was happy to let them on.

We rolled into town to find the Wild West in the streets. It was a parade of dancing horses,  cowboys and homemade gunpowder fireworks…and virgins.  It was completely out of control and like stepping into the past.

A block over was the park and ‘arena’ with fire pits and chickens roasting everywhere. One quote of the evening was “They grow some damn tasty chickens on this island.”  Es verdad. There were even babies drinking beer.

Then, a rodeo. We paid our 30 cordobas and went up into the smokey stands to see some bull riding.

The bulls were tied up to a tree stump in the arena until they were angry, a cowboy climbs on and  the guys would let go of the rope. The bull usually made a break for the stands, and the hundreds of insane young men running around inside the ring would scurry up the sides of the rickety stands. The whole stadium would shake and feel like it was going to fall down. Strangers would grab whatever kid was in front of them just in case.

It was quite a night.

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Filed Under: Nicaragua

Facebook Fan of the Month – August

Posted on August 1, 2010 by 3 Comments

Nick and  Jen

When did you get your van? Any stories about the previous owner(s) or how you obtained it?

I found my current van (1978 GMC Vandura) on Craigslist in June of 2007.  I purchased it from the original owner who had “customized” it nearly to death throughout the ’80s.  It seemed like it was in decent shape until I got it home and really started looking deep.  The wiring was a rat’s nest and he had done some horrible body work that was hiding under a ton of bondo.  Still, everybody seemed to like the thick blue shag carpet on the ceiling.  It’s still an ongoing project but it’s getting close to where I want it.

It’s got a name, right? Any story behind it?

This one (1978 Vandura) is the Casual Turtle 5.  All of my vans starting with my first VW Bus have been named Casual Turtle.  The name comes from a line in John Steinbeck’s book “Travels with Charley” where describes traveling in his truck camper.  “I had to be self-contained, a kind of casual turtle carrying his house on his back.”

Have a favorite memory or trip in the van?

I have had many different buses and vans and they all hold great memories.  Each one represents stages in my life.  My carefree wanderings as a young, single man in my 72 Westy, Taking my (then) girlfreind on trips in my 85 Econoline and so on.  I think this van is all about the future.  With my son almost a year old all I can think of this van is the memories and trips that we will make together as a family with it.

Any big adventures planned? What’s your dream trip?

There are 3 big ones in the works.  1. Driving Rt 66 all the way west and then following the Lincoln Highway all the way back east to Pa.  2. Driving from Pennsylvania to Alaska and back. 3. Driving all the way south through Mexico to Guatemala (Thanks to you guys for the inspiration).

How did you hear about us? Any suggestions on where we should we go?

Facebook suggested Jason as a friend.  We had no mutual friends but I recognized the louvered window of a Westfalia behind him in his profile picture.  I found out about bodeswell.org and have been checking it daily ever since.  No suggestions since you are headed where I have never been, but I will extend a permanent invitation to visit/camp/crash with us anytime you may find yourself in Western Pennsylvania.

P.S.  I am starting a van travel blog to document my vanning adventures with my wife, son and 2 Boston Terriers.  Its still in its beginning stages and kind of random, but here it is if anyone wants to check it out. http://www.avannersnexthorizon.blogspot.com/

Keep on Vannin!

Want to be featured here? Just let us know through the comments or Facebook.

We’ll change the questions each month, just to keep you on your toes;)

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Filed Under: Nicaragua

Ferry Fun

Posted on July 30, 2010 by 2 Comments

We stopped by San Jorge to check out the ferry schedule to Ometepe and as luck would have it there was a ferry leaving in 20 minutes. Another boat ride!

  

 

This one was pretty easy. For about $20 USD, we could ship the bus and all four of us over to the island. Since we were still a little paranoid after the break-in, we found a perch right above the bus and took a seat where we could see it.

Every single person on the ferry went by the bus and took a gander. Some folks pressed their noses against the glass, some folks used the mirrors to check their hair, some were just drawnd to lean against it. I’m pretty sure that every single person on the ferry put their hands on the car at some point. I never knew how much attention it got when we weren’t around and this was a bit of an eye-opener.

 

 

Ometepe is an island in the middle of Lake Nicaragua formed by two volcanoes. We hadn’t planned on ferrying over that day so we were a little out of sorts when we arrived. We found a place next to the water with a good view of the biggest volcano.

We swam in the warm lake and then whipped up some dinner. Doug was introduced to the wonders of Cavender’s Greek seasoning and we enjoyed a peaceful evening next to some mooing cows.  

  

I spent some time with my new friend that I named Elsie (pictured) and tried some long exposures using my thoroughly emptied wine glass as a tripod. All in a day’s work.

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Filed Under: Nicaragua

Total Bummer

Posted on July 29, 2010 by 7 Comments

We stopped back by Granada for the day so we could grab some lunch and show Doug around. When we stayed here last time, the hostel said we could safely park on the street in front of the door. that time, we opted to pay $5 a day to park at the fire station. This trip we parked in front of the hostel and started wandering the town.

We had lunch, climbed the church tower and meandered our way to the lake. It was hot and closing in on late afternoon so we decided to get going.

What we didn’t realize was that while we were goofing off and taking pictures around town, someone was busy trying to rob us.

I often have an uneasy feeling about the van when we park it full of all our stuff… and I did this afternoon too. As we were walking back towards the bus, I hurried Bode along because I was anxious to see it. When we turned down the street where it was parked, I remember scanning the roof and seeing the camping chairs there and thinking it was okay.

But, when we got to the van we immediately saw that someone had used a screwdriver to break open the side windows and reached in to try to open the door. They mangled the window frame on both sides and broke off the hinges on the lower window and the screen frame. They obviously reached in and tried to open the door from the inside. Fortunately for us, they didn’t get very far (you can’t unlock the door from the inside.)

Anyway, total bummer. It was bound to happen sooner or later, as everyone we meet here has some sort of story about getting robbed. I guess we’ve been lucky to go 11 months without any problems. Meanwhile, 3 of my friends back in the U.S. have had their car broken into recently.

For hours afterward, we had the normal “what if?”discussions and we thought about how bad it could have been. We don’t have many valuables, but nearly everything we own is inside the van (and now Doug’s stuff too.)

The good news is that they didn’t get inside the bus. They must have gotten spooked and run off before getting much farther – the bus is not very hard to break into. Later, we discovered that they took the canopy from the roof.

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Filed Under: Nicaragua

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