Archive for the Guerrero Category
Posted on May 20, 2010 by angela
We knew it would take a while to get to Puerto Escondido when we left Acapulco, but I didn’t know we would end up taking 3 days.
We left the hot and humid Playa Ventura and headed south. The road goes inland a bit, and we stopped for lunch and a look around at the market in Pinotepa Nacional. The market here is supposed to be amazing on Wednesdays and Sundays, when 3 different indigenous communities stream into town in their traditional dress. We were there on a Saturday though, so it seemed pretty much like most of the big markets we’ve been to. This area also has a noticeably larger Miztec population.
Things turned a bit greener once we crossed into Oaxaca. We headed another hour or so southeast before deciding it was time to call it a night. We had been told that Chacahua was nice so we stopped there. Upon driving into the small village we were surrounded by a few young boys who climbed on the bus and were offering us sodas and drinks at their family’s tienda. It took some effort to shoo them away and pressed through and found a restaurant by at the end of town where the nice woman said we could camp if we bought drinks from her.
The place next door had large kid pool so we joined a family on vacation from Oaxaca and got in. They had 6 kids, so Bode was in heaven trying to entertain them. There were also sand dunes nearby, so I took the kids for a run before dinner. We were able to cook our own dinner and order drinks from the restaurant, so Jason prepared some more sea bass.
The mosquitoes and no-see-ums were out in full force. We discovered we’ve been carrying around 2 empty bottles of bug spray, but luckily we were traveling with prepared friends. We need to put bug spray and mosquito nets on our shopping list before going further south.
Andres accidentally tripped over a smoldering coconut shell (to keep away mosquitoes) and burned his foot. Then, while we were washing dishes we both were bitten by fire ants. Somehow we’ve been able to avoid bug problems until now. I think we’re going to have to get used to it, especially since the rainy season is coming.
It was another night extremely hot night with no ocean breeze. Bode lamented in the middle of the night ‘Isn’t it morning yet?’
The shower at this place is a barrel of water and a bucket, so not exactly refreshing in the morning. On to Puerto Escondido, and hopefully a breeze. It is definitely time to air out the bus.
Posted on May 19, 2010 by angela
We drove for over 3 hours and the first hour was just through Acapulco. The same nerve-racking driving experience as the day before, but this time with the Bulli’s closely following us. There are no lanes and oh so many honking horns and sirens. Buses squeeze through places you’d never imagine they could, inches away from my face and I feared the side mirrors would surely be taken off.
Finally through the madness we headed down the coast. The weather is getting hotter and hotter and we are in a constant sweat. The only A/C for the day is a brief stop for groceries. Hours later, we pulled into Playa Ventura which is only about 70 miles from where we started. Winding roads, miscellaneous farm animals and topes really slow down a drive.
We found another palapa restaurant to camp at and sat in the shade trying to cool off. The waves were too strong and breaking right on the shore, so we couldn’t take the kids in for a swim. They were happy to play in the sand though.
Camping is free if you eat at the restaurant. There was no menu – you get shrimp or fish. Ane’s a vegetarian. She’s pregnant and luckily her baby was wanting some fish. We ordered up some of each, and the fish came out heads and all. Ane was a trouper and ate it. I had to have Jason dissect it for me.
There was no breeze that night, and it was uncomfortably hot in the buses. We almost got the kids to sleep in the hammocks, but they just couldn’t do it. It was so hot that Jason got out and tried it at 2 am, but couldn’t sleep in them either.
The next morning the heat was still stifling and I took 2 showers to cool off. We headed out as soon as we could, but no one was moving very fast.
Posted on May 18, 2010 by angela
The drive from Zihuatenajo to Acapulco took most of a day and was very hot. Most of the Guererro landscape seems to be on fire. We’re not too sure if this is their way of clearing land or if some of these are accidental fires, but they are everywhere. One entire mountaintop was on fire and generally scorched to the dirt. For four hours, we stared out the window at a black hills and a smokey landscape. Then, once we got to Acapulco we experienced what has to be one of the craziest cities we’ve ever driven through. The streets are a complete free-for-all.
We finally made it to the public beach, where we were charged to park on the street. Every open public parking spot seems to have guys waving you and then trying to charge you as if it were their property. Not wanting to return to flat tires – or worse – we eventually forked over 20 pesos so we could go cool off.
At the beach, we tried to find a place to plop down our stuff, but every square inch of beach was claimed by the restaurants. They placed their plastic tables and chairs all the way up to, and into, the water so that you were forced to be their guest. There is literally no room to sit on the sand. We walked and walked and finally gave up because of the heat. I sat down at a shaded table with the stuff while Bode and Jason got into the water. It was a weekend, and the water was packed with families and boats.
The wandering aggressive vendors were out in full force and I believe I got a full 2 minutes between each one. Here though, they don’t always just pass by when you say ‘No, gracias.’ They stand in front of you and wait. Or, just continue with their sales pitch unabated. The women trying to sell their massage treatments actually squirted oil on my back and began rubbing my shoulders after I had said no. After a few more ‘no, no gracias‘ and then getting up and moving chairs she finally left me with lots of dripping oil all over my shoulders. Of course, this was a pretty good sales tactic because I thought about how I should have taken that massage for the rest of the day…those few seconds did feel pretty good. To cap it off, when leaving, the waiter tried to short-change us.
Tired from the drive and the hectic beach, we went to find the cliff divers and find a place to stay. The camping spots here are way out of town (through crazy traffic) so we weren’t eager to get back into the car and drive in the sweltering heat. We found another cheapo hotel – this one with a marble terrace and a great view, but ‘decorated’ with plastic furniture. Our room featured a broken TV in a padlocked steel cage. Only the best will do.
We also met up with our friends Ane, Andres and Luca at the cliff divers. The kids were so happy to see each other again.
The diving was pretty impressive, but a very short show (each of the 5 divers only dove once). We planned to meet again the next afternoon and get the hell out of Acapulco. Its ludicrously hot, overcrowded, and generally unpleasant to be a tourist here. It’s tough to overcome a bad first impression.
One highlight of the day was when we were walking back from the divers. We found street food that looked promising. One of those places where the cook-top takes up the entire sidewalk, so they put the tables and chairs in the street. They had tapped into the light socket of a closed business and had a small TV showing the Angola vs. Mexico soccer match. Cars would pull over to check the score or just park and watch. The quesadillas and the entertainment were awesome, and they just loved trying to explain the game to Bode.
Also, we’ve seen more vochos and air-cooled VW’s here than anywhere on our trip.
Posted on May 17, 2010 by angela
I have been looking forward to getting to Zihuatenajo for a long time. We came here about 6 years ago for our friends’ wedding (hi Kaj and Karli!). I was pregnant and had just been through a miserable pregnancy-related discrimination issue at my work. It was great to get away, see old friends and realize that my soon-to-be-born baby was my new priority and not my stupid job. After that vacation, I went back and quit.
Bode loves hearing about being here in-utero. Stories like he’d almost been named Yoli after a local soft drink, an awesome pizza place here and the ocean water was the temperature of a bathtub. And, he’d already been surfing before he was even born!
So, after several wonderful days in La Saladita, we ventured on to Zihau. We were less than impressed with the camping options in town. Since we needed some internet time (and some sand removal,) I convinced Jason to stay at the hotel we had stayed at before. Of course, that was back when we had 2 incomes and didn’t live in a van. Luckily, it’s off-season here, and they had a 2 for 1 promotion. So we spent a fabulous few days in Zihau and as much as I’d love to tell you all the great touristy things we did, I can’t. We mostly stayed in our ‘luxurious’ hotel room and at their very nice pool. I say luxurious because it had air conditioning. And, it’s on the beach and with a kitchen… and INTERNET! Happy Mother’s Day to ME!
We lazed around our hotel room and caught up on a few things. It was really nice to be somewhere somewhat familiar for a while.
Bode finally got some goggles and can now swim half-way across the pool. He’s also quite good at the ole’ cannonball and he’s starting to dive.
We tried to go to the much-loved pizza place (where 6 of us ordered 8 pizzas last time) but it was closed. I’m still mourning.
But, I can’t sleep at night because there is INTERNET. Since no one Facebook’s in the middle of the night, I’m all caught up.
Posted on May 14, 2010 by jason
We figured it out quickly. La Saladita is the perfect beach for us.
There is a point break about 200 yards out where 5 footers roll over and will carry you all the way to the shore. Andres asked around and as luck would have it, the Canadians in front of us were leaving and looking to sell a long board. He bought their 9 ft board and we moved into their beach-front camping spot as they left. We’re all taking turns on the board and it seems to be just right for all of us.
The beach in front is gently sloping and perfect for the kids to romp around and for Bode to boogie-board his now-regular 5 times per day. A week ago he hated a cold shower, but now he runs and rinses off all by himself after each session. He even submits himself to the daily slathering of sunscreen with no complaints. The kid loves his board.
Wild horses. They just wander up through an arroyo and meander on the beach. Sometimes there’s a standoff with the beach dogs, but the horses always win.
There has been lots of lounging in hammocks. Luca is also teaching us some German. In German, it’s Hängematte - literally a hanging mat.
On a tip, we tried eating at a little shack a back off the beach and just started ordering whatever sounded good – no menu. Breakfast was hand-made blue corn tortillas from a wood-fired skillet with scrambled eggs, ham and frijoles. 30 pesos. Delicioso.
We’ll be here a little while.
Posted on May 13, 2010 by jason
The morning break at Nexpa was a little more reasonable, but still way too big and powerful for our liking. Besides, we still didn’t have a board. Time to keep moving. First, Bode had to read a book to Luca. Very proud!
We lingered, then drove aimlessly until we saw a pretty good looking arroyo after crossing a bridge. We turned the bus around and followed the dirt path to the beach and a single palapa. Once again, I went inside and asked to camp in my best broken Spanish. “No problema,” with a smile was again the response.
This weird little place was Puente Mexcalhuacan and it is definitely not in any guidebooks.
“?Es suguro?”
“Si. no problema.”
We rearranged the buses and went back to patronize the palapa. “?Tienne cerveza?”
“No… mas tarde…”
There was no one around, but then suddenly kids arrived on the beach and Bode had more instant playmates. Teenagers or whoever, it just doesn’t matter. The kid will walk right up and ask anyone to play or join in the game.
We whipped up some dinner – more sea bass – and the lady at the palapa announced that beer had arrived. We bought a few to seal our camping arrangement and watched the kids chase each other all over the beach for the rest of the evening.
After another quiet night, we kept pushing south. We’re still traveling without a jack and it continues to be a bad idea. I keep thinking I’ll pull over to a yonke and just pick one up, but so far I’ve had no luck. I also continue to ask for “un gato” which I think is correct, but I can’t help thinking that I’m asking for an actual cat.
After a very brief stop in Lázaro Cárdenas for supplies and another brief stop in the sadly dilapidated Playa Azul for sandwiches (our own,) we made our way to La Saladita.
We pulled up and immediately spotted a ’70 Westy. A very good sign that we found the right place and yet another validation of our theory that 2 buses always attracts a third. Not long after, we met Aster and her boyfriend who walked up from their afternoon session carrying their boards. She’s from SoCal via Hong Kong and he’s from Montreal. He likes the big waves and she likes the smaller ones. They’re an interesting match. They’re wrapping up a three-month surfing trip and are slowly heading north again.
We wandered the beach looking for a good place to camp and found one close by. Right off the beach in a shady spot between a coconut grove and a mango grove. This is tough living.
