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Monkey Rescue

Posted on September 3, 2010 by jasonNo Comments

After Cahuita, we went the 10 or so miles down the road to Puerto Viejo. This town is a real tourist draw, but the precise reason why escapes me. There is plenty of infrastructure in place, with restaurants,  hotels, grocery stores, etc,  but the beach out front lacks appeal. Many of the people we talked to were dropped here ‘for free’ after some other tour in Costa Rica. It is definitely on the backpacker circuit and seems to be Party Central on the Caribbean side of the country.

Only Bode was up for an all-night party, so we started creeping out of town until we found the Jaguar Rescue Center. Despite it’s name (there are no jaguars,) it’s actually a really great stop if you are interested in getting up close and personal with some local animals.

All the animals here get brought in after being confiscated pets, found injured, illegally sold, etc. They take care of everyone until they are able to be released back into the jungle. In some cases, they can’t be released, which also makes this a bit of a personal zoo for the owner.

Of course, we went for the monkeys. The tour starts by walking right into the monkey pen. They have 10 or so howlers of various ages – all of whom are eager to jump right on your head. There is no prodding or training here. The monkey do whatever they want, but it mostly involves using the visitors as climbing structures. Heads make good chairs.

There were a few rambunctious tenants, so the guide told us that if we needed to, we should pick them up by their tails. Bode was clearly listening, because right then he leaned over and picked up an unsuspecting monkey by it’s tail. He must have needed to do it.

The tails are pure muscle and more like a long finger. Pretty cool.

Every afternoon, they open the pen and take all of them out to the jungle to frolic. If they find another group and want to leave, they are free to go. So far, two of them have found a mate (for some reason they are all females.)

Next were the sloths. They have two of them and the same rules apply. They take them our every afternoon and hang them on a tree and see if they will go anywhere.  They have a two-toe and a three-toe sloth sloth here and they are pretty interesting to see close-up.

Last were an endless line of snakes and one jungle cat – the name escapes me, but not a jaguar – a small one that was actually being sold along with a box of kittens (or so the story goes.)

Cahuita National Park

Posted on September 2, 2010 by jason1 Comment

We pulled into Cahuita and found sleepy little town right on the edge of the National Park. You follow the main road into town and after that it sort of aimlessly meanders off in different directions and narrowly weaves between people’s houses and cabinas.

There’s a beach right in town, but you are better off crossing the footbridge at the southern edge of town into the National Park. Here, they appreciate a donation for admission and you can hike their trails to find your own little slice of beachfront for the day.

Angela was talking to the park ranger and mentioned off-hand that she hadn’t seen a sloth in Costa Rica yet. The ranger walked about 10 meters, looked up into a tree and pointed. There you go.

They like to sit curled up at the tree-tops for week-long stretches. From a distance they just look like a furry bird’s nest. They don’t really move around, so you really have to be deliberately looking for them.  Apparently, they only come down for their weekly poop at the base of the tree.

We hiked into the park and put Bode in charge of the day’s photos. He though it would be a really good joke to cut our heads off in all of them, but we were on to him… eventually.

Not far down the trail, we spotted (heard) howler monkeys and we looked up to find they were all around us. We’ve been around monkeys for so long it almost feels normal to have them in the trees above us.

We plopped down in a shady spot in the sand and commenced our day at the beach. Now, white faced monkeys appeared directly above us and started dropping their fruit peelings on us.

A good hike. A beautiful beach. An animal show.

This isn’t quite paradise, but I think we’re getting close.

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Filed Under: Costa Rica

We Attract ‘Em

Posted on August 22, 2010 by jason4 Comments

We said goodbye to Bree and Ray as they headed off to have a more luxurious end to their vacation before returning home to the Bay Area. Good thing, as we had an fairly inglorious departure from Montezuma.

There is a very steep hill just outside of town and we simply couldn’t make it up. Naturally, there was no one else on the road, so I just put it in neutral and rolled all the way back down to town backwards.

Angela and Bode went off to find ice-cream while I went to work. Valves were fine. Timing was good. The mixture on the right carb was off by a full turn. Weird. The right side of this engine is possessed.

We gave it another try and powered up the hill in 1st gear like a champ.

Most of the roads around here are dirt, so guidebooks and strangers give plenty of warnings about driving without a 4×4. I still don’t quite get it – we’ve been fine so far, even though it rains daily and this is supposedly the worst time of year for the roads. Granted, we haven’t taken any routes that require fording rivers, but still, just because a road isn’t paved doesn’t immediately mean that four-wheel drive is required.

However, we did manage to vibrate another shock loose after a few hours of bouncing all over these roads. Easily tightened back up.

Anyway, on to today’s story…

We pulled over to a soda to have some lunch and order up the usual casado. A few minutes later, a guy with long gray hair and no shirt walks in and makes a bee-line right for us.

“You must be the gringos from California!”

Yep – that’s us. He spotted us a few kilometers back and turned his truck around to come find us.

Of course, he had his share of old VW buses over the years and wanted to chat. He joined us at the table and introduced himself as Wayne.

I like preposterous theories, so there’s a theory about anyone named “Wayne” – especially if it’s a middle name – that could apply here. Think serial killers.

It wasn’t even five minutes after sitting down until Wayne tells us that he indeed, has killed a man. Right here in Costa Rica.

He spent most of his life in Minnesota and had a large piece of land near a lake. Life was good until his property was annexed by a nearby town and he had to start paying property taxes he deemed egregious. He sold the property – sold everything – and drove down to Costa Rica to retire.

He told us he paid over $5000 USD in bribes to corrupt border officials and police on his drive down here. I told him I refused to pay a $5 bribe in Honduras and walked away without being thrown in the slammer. He didn’t skip a beat and kept on talking.

He bought some property down here and proceeded to build a house and start retirement. It wasn’t long after that he went to some sort of Christmas party at a local establishment and on his drive home – at 1 am – struck and killed a man who he claims was sleeping in the road.

Things get fuzzy here, but after some brief jail time (2 days, coffee and food was good) he hired a lawyer. Over the next two years he made continuous payments to the lawyer, made donations to the local police force, and payments to the family. When he was finally literally out of money, the whole mess was ruled an accident and  the case was closed. Now a free man, he was effectively stuck in Costa Rica with no money or any way to get back to the US.

He does handy-man type work and seems to be building a business here and getting back on his feet. It’s hard to tell if he likes it here or not and claims that all the ex-pats here are drunks and pedophiles – rejects from the US. We didn’t ask which one he was.

We bought him his cup of coffee and thanked him for the conversation before continuing our way up the peninsula.

I wonder who we would have met today if we were driving a Toyota?

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Isla Tortuga

Posted on August 20, 2010 by jason3 Comments

Isla Tortuga is about an hour by boat from Montezuma and a great day trip. It’s a tiny island with a white sand beach lined with palm trees. We made the trip, did some snorkeling and generally lounged on the sand for most of the day.

It’s a really beautiful place and the water temperature is perfect for soaking in the sheltered cove all day. If that’s not your thing, you can make friends with a wild beach hog of some sort.

The snorkeling was pretty good, but the sea was a bit angry that day. Bode didn’t quite get in the groove. We did spot plenty of fish, and he enjoyed feeding them some bread from the boat.

The ride home was more adventurous, as the afternoon storm rolled in and the ocean got really rough. Then the rain started dumping down. We were flying in the boat to get home quickly before things got really bad and the rain drops were stinging like crazy. We were soaked, cold and thoroughly beaten by the time we got back to the beach at Montezuma.

Because we always seem to get on a boat with an engine problem, we had to do a boat transfer before beaching and walking home in the rain. Still, not a bad way to spend an afternoon.

Montezuma

Posted on August 19, 2010 by jason3 Comments

Montezuma is at the end of a dirt road at the very tip of the Nicoya peninsula. It’s a one-road jam-band kind of town with a few bars, restaurants, and camping at the end.

It’s the kind of place that people go to hang out and listen to reggae all day after meditating or doing yoga. Maybe do some juggling while your friend swings from the trapeze hanging from a tree over the street.  Stick around long enough and you’ll be making and selling jewelry on the sidewalk or just endlessly hula-hooping around town.

Apparently there’s some good surfing here, but we didn’t see it. I got the impression that surfing might not be a mellow enough activity for this crowd.

The beaches are decent, there’s a nearby little waterfall, and there are monkeys and iguanas everywhere. There is absolutely no one on the beach. They are, uh, busy meditating while hula hooping.

Don’t get me wrong, we like the place. We came just to check it out and ended up staying five days.

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Filed Under: Costa Rica

Arenal to San Jose

Posted on August 10, 2010 by jasonNo Comments

We would have loved to linger around the lake a bit longer, but we had to get rolling to make our way over to San Jose to pick up some more friends. On the way, we drove around the lake and checked out the big Volcano.

Volcan Arenal is a giant perfectly-shaped cone like the kind you would draw as a kid… including the lava and smoke. It’s currently active and spits smoke and ash right out the top on a fairly continuous basis. The one difficulty we’ve discovered with watching volcanoes is that the tops are almost always covered in clouds. We lucked out today and had a few hours of clear skies and could see the top, but the clouds rolled in not long after.

There is a national park here and although there is no camping inside, there is actually a place to camp right outside the entrance. We went by to check it out and it was a mosquito-infested swamp… and then it started pouring down raining. Too bad. We hear that on a clear night you can sit and watch the lava shoot out the top and stream down the sides. We later heard that the lava flow shifted to the other side, so no biggie .

We made it as far as La Fortuna and ran into our buddies Jesse and Kyle. It’s looking like the timing is still about right so that we can share a container bound for Colombia… we’ll have to wait and see.

As with most volcanoes, hot springs abound all around them. Here, they mostly seem to be the fancy variety. Most have an over-priced daily fee. We had a good recommendation for one that required reservations, but we’re not very good about making reservations. Since we were in a hurry, we settled for a cheesy water park near town, which actually seemed to be the perfect choice for everyone.

On the way down to San Jose we checked a few other camping options. One place in the mountains had a sign out front that said ‘camping’ and we pulled in and it was awesome. The problem was that they had no interest in letting us camp there. First, they said “sorry, but there is no electricity at the campground so there’s no camping.” We persisted that it wasn’t a problem and they said they would call the owner. Way too much time passed and it was clear they didn’t give a flip about us, so we left. It looked like they were converting the place into an upscale resort and the old camping sign out front hadn’t been removed yet.

Anyway, we finally found our camping spot in of all places, next to the San Jose airport. They have what is called “the only RV park in Costa Rica” in the town of Belen just 2 km away. Not quite a destination, but they had hot showers and wi-fi. There was even another Westy there. I was hopeful a third would show up, but no luck.

We met a few folks and they all wanted to have a look at the bus. Some were amazed that all four of us were going to sleep in our little camper (Doug hasn’t complained yet.)  They would look at us, look at the bus, then turn around and look at their giant RV and stare in wonder.

The next day we met the owner of the green Westy. He was from Venezuela and he was actually staying in one of the RV’s there. His bus was immaculate, but didn’t look like it moved much. He was torn about recommending we visit Venezuela – he’s not planning on going back, but things are a little different for citizens.

Also, we were interviewed for the Brazilian magazine Fusca & Cia a few months back and it just hit the newsstands. We had totally forgotten about it until someone sent us a photo along with a generous invitation to come visit in Argentina. If anyone out there actually has a copy of the magazine, please save it for us!

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Filed Under: Costa Rica

The Not So Friendly Skies

Posted on August 8, 2010 by jason3 Comments

Doug’s guest post!

Disclaimer:  Apologies to all the bodeswell fans out there.  Angela alluded to this story a long time ago, and I’m just blogging about it now.  Let me tell you, maintaining a blog is hard work.  After a “rough” day of lazing around on the beach, exploring volcanoes, traveling for hours on the road in Red Beard, cooling off in cold spring water holes, or attending random rodeos on a patron saint’s feast day, it’s tough to sit down at the end of the day and write a blog and upload photos.  Although there’s plenty of wi-fi available throughout Central America, sometimes there’s a brownout, or the laptop is out of juice, or we can’t get a reliable signal, or we’re simply too busy researching where our next adventure is going to take place.  Hats off to Angela and Jason for keeping their blog updated!

So my flight into Managua was a bit harrowing.  As we make our final approach, things are normal, and I’m excited to step foot in Central America for the very first time.  I peek out the window and recognize two freshwater lakes, and a several huge volcanoes from previous research I’ve done from my guidebooks.

The captain makes his normal, final decent announcement of “we’ll be on the ground shortly.  Flight attendants, please prepare the cabin for arrival.”  So we put up our tray tables, bring our seats forward, etc.  I’m excited that within minutes, I’ll set foot in Central America for the very first time.

However, about 20 minutes goes by, and I notice we pass over the same volcano I saw earlier.  The captain then makes another announcement and says “you may have noticed we’ve been circling Managua in a holding pattern.  We are experiencing some ‘mechanical issues’, and we are unable to land at this time”.  All of us in the cabin kind of looked at each other with confused looks on our faces.  I hear murmurs half jokingly saying things like “I hope this doesn’t have anything to do with the ‘mechanical issues’ we had before we left Miami”.  (Our flight departed late from Miami due to a “maintenance issue”, but we had received the “all clear”, and they made up the time in the air.)  No one’s worried just yet, but I do see a few signs of the cross being made.  The captain, in his cool, calm and collected voice announces “we’re going to attempt to rectify the issue”, and “we appreciate your patience”.

After another 20 minutes, we continue to circle.  The TV monitor in the cabin shows a map with our flight route, and now the yellow line is shows a lot of figure 8s and circles on the screen.  I’m still not quite worried yet, but granted there also haven’t been any updates yet, and the all announcements so far have (I assume) been intentionally vague.

Then the surreal happens.  The captain makes another, somewhat disturbing announcement (still in his calm voice):  “Ladies and gentlemen, we have been unable to rectify the issue.  As a precaution, I’ve requested fire trucks to be on standby on the runway when we land.  This is strictly a precaution, and I’d rather have them there than not at all, so please don’t be alarmed if you see them when we land.”  Then he says “I’m now implementing procedure number blah, blah, blah”, in which he rattled off some unfamiliar numbered code.  He then concludes his announcement with “at this time, please direct your attention to the flight attendants who will now go over some important safety announcements and procedures”.

Immediately, the entire flight crew goes into a very serious emergency mode.  They pull out binders and begin reading and announcing very detailed instructions.  The instructions are procedures for a quick and orderly evacuation as soon as plane lands.

They begin with a very stern “if you are using iPods, you need to turn them off NOW!”  “At this time, please locate an emergency exit that is closest to you.  There are four exits over the wings”.  Then they make that over the wing gesture pointing to the wings, but in a very prominent and serious way.  There’s an intentional, long pause, allowing time for the passengers to think about their nearest exit.  Then they continue, “There are two exits in the rear.”  Again, they make that very prominent gesture pointing to the back of the plane, and again, intentionally pause to let it sink it.

They continue by saying, “when we land, you need to go to the nearest exit in a quick and orderly fashion.  You will then go down the inflatable slide in twos.  You need to remove any sharp objects in your pocket like keys, so as not to puncture the slide.  Take NOTHING with you except the clothes on your back.  Don’t worry about your passport, your hand carry luggage, your camera, etc.  Just leave it stowed, or place it in the seat pocket in front of you.  After sliding down, you will then need to move as quickly as possible away from the plane.”

Holy shit!  This is serious.  This is definitely no joke.  What kind of mechanical issue are we having that we need to evacuate quickly?  I’m thinking, are the landing gear wheels not working?  Are we going to land with the metal fuselage skidding along the concrete runway?  Maybe it will spark and ignite the jet fuel.  Maybe this is why the captain ordered the fire trucks to be on standby.  Maybe that’s why the flight attendants wanted us to move as far away as possible from the plane after we use the emergency slides.

We then go over how to properly brace for impact.  We practice crossing our arms and leaning against the seat in front of us, and make sure our seat belts are as fastened as tight as possible.

People are definitely getting worried now, including myself.  Families are embracing each other, people are praying, some are even crying.  I’m still relatively calm, because the entire flight crew is calm, and even the captain is calm.  These are worse case scenario procedures, and the flight crew keeps indicating these procedures are being done strictly as a precaution.   If they’re not worried, I shouldn’t be worried.  At least that was my logic.  I also think of Captain Sully Sullenburg who landed his plane in the Hudson River, and find some comfort knowing pilots can make emergency landings with good outcomes.

The crew continues to prepare for the emergency landing, and it’s a little bit of a roller coaster for me.  I overhear one concerned passenger and he asks the flight attendant if we are making a land landing, or a water landing. The flight attendant assures him it’s going to be a land landing, but I’m thinking if there are fire trucks, wouldn’t it be better to land in water instead?

Then, a flight attendant goes up and down the aisles asking “who’s traveling alone?”  I raise my hand, and then the flight attendant asks if I’d mind moving to another seat.  There’s a mother and son who are seated separately, and want to sit next to each other.  I move to another seat, and I’m now in the very last row in the aisle directly across from the rear door.

I’m OK with the seat change, because now, I’ll be one of the first people off the plane.  However, I now overhear instructions given to two volunteer passengers who will be the backup door and slide operators.  I guess there needs to be backup people in case the flight attendant, for some reason, can’t make it to that door.  The flight attendant asks the two volunteers, to repeat the steps she’s just read from her binder.  “Step 1, check for fire and smoke through that little round window.  If there is fire and smoke, don’t open the door, and use another exit.  Step 2, if clear, pull this lever to inflate the slide.  Step 3, pull the backup lever if the first lever doesn’t work.”

On one hand, I’m worried about the smoke and fire thing, but on the other hand, it’s good to know there are backup procedures in place.  I assume if the flight attendant passes out from smoke, there will be two backup people to operate the slide.  If the slide fails to inflate, there is even a backup lever.  The redundancy safety procedures calm me a bit.  It’s just like all the safety redundancy when you SCUBA dive.

So we’ve gone through all the emergency procedures now, and the captain makes a final announcement that we’re ready to land.  He indicates we’ll be landing a little faster than normal, and that’s why he wanted to go over all of these safety procedures.

The next 10 minutes seem to last an eternity, and an eerie silence fills the cabin.  Some people curiously close their shades, but I anxiously try to see through open windows how close we are to the ground from the aisle seat I’m in.  We’re getting closer and closer to the ground.  I can see trees, buildings, and roads.  Then we land with a slight, normal sounding bump, but that’s it.  I’m waiting for the “brace for impact” announcement, but there’s nothing.  All of sudden everyone realizes we have just landed safely, and everyone applauds and cheers loudly.  I’m a bit confused and think the applauding is a bit premature.  I’m thinking we’re not out of the woods yet, and that we’ll still need to evacuate when the plane comes to a stop.  I quickly realize, we have landed fine, and there’s no evacuation necessary.  I finally applaud with everyone else.  A teenager a few rows ahead, captures the moment on his camera.  People are hugging each other, laughing, and giving high fives.  I’m still a bit in disbelief and shock.

Then after so many very serious safety announcements and procedures, the flight crew goes back to their normal landing announcements as if nothing had happened.  They start with a simple “Ladies and gentlemen, welcome to Managua”.  There’s a long pause, and we all bust out in collective laughter.  The announcement continues, “local time is 12:45, and current temperature is 85 degrees.  Please remain seated until the plane reaches the gate.”  Everything’s literally “by the book”.  I jokingly imagine in their emergency binders, there’s probably a yes or no flow chart saying something like “did plane land normally?  If yes, continue with normal landing announcements.  If no, continue to page 5.”

So the Rehms have had such an extraordinary adventure already.  I guess it was inevitable for me to start my journey with them with a bang (no pun intended).  It’s funny because my parents were so worried about me traveling within a third world country, but maybe they should have been more concerned about me landing safely in the first place.  In all seriousness though, this experience has made me even more confident about flying.  Rest assured, for those of you who hate or fear flying, take comfort in the fact that the airlines have always had a worse case scenario emergency plan of action.  You just don’t know about it, and hopefully you’ll never hear about it, or ever have to go through this experience as I did.  I found out later the “mechanical issue” was a flap problem.  The flaps weren’t operating properly, and therefore couldn’t slow the plane down as much as the captain wanted.  The landing gear was fine.

As I exited the plane, I made a point to thank the flight crew and the captain.  I was very impressed, and appreciated the professional manner in which this tense situation was handled.  I now have an even greater respect for all flight attendants.  They’re really not just waiters and waitresses in the sky.  They are highly trained professionals in managing large groups of people and keeping them safe.

I disembark from the plane, go through immigration, and claim my baggage.  I see Jason, Angela, and Bode behind the glass with all the other people waiting for their parties to arrive.  Needless to say, they are truly a sight for sore eyes.  Completely clueless about what just transpired, I bring them up to speed, and we head out to Red Beard.  It’s insanely hot and humid.  We drive off into the Nicaraguan countryside, make a quick stop at Volcán Masaya to look down the crater of an active volcano, then head to the Monkey Hut, a great hostel at Lago de Apoya, a beautiful and clean freshwater lake surrounded   by rainforest, for some well earned R & R.  To put it mildly, a very memorable day one is now complete.  I’ve still got several more weeks of adventures still to go.  Benvenidos a Nicaragua y Central America!

Note: Doug also gave notice of his resignation as “guest blogger”.

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Filed Under: Costa Rica, Nicaragua

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