Eight hours
So, this is how we spent our Sunday…
We headed over to our new friend Ignacio’s family’s house to do some work on the bus. The plan was to drop the engine, break it down, and replace the pistons and cylinders. We were already on our 3rd set of piston rings, had low compression on #1, and suspected a minor oil leak (already) since the rebuild in Mendoza. It was the right time and location to swap for a new piston set. Moreover, with our plan of driving south all the way within 1000 km of Antarctica, we figured we should really make sure the engine was ready for the trip.
I think I told Ignacio that I could do all of the the work in a day and be finished in 6 hours – I was wrong and it took about eight. We ended up sleeping in the driveway, but we did manage to leave the next morning.
Everyone was incredibly generous and gracious and we really appreciate their willingness to allow us to invade their home for the day. Heck, they even fed us lunch and dinner. I don’t now how we continue to get so lucky – thanks everyone!
We’ve put a few miles on the engine since then and have a few early results. There’s a really loud valve slapping noise on the right side of the motor – no clue what’s going on there – I cleaned the heads, but otherwise didn’t touch the valves. I replaced the front main seal, but the oil leak is still there. Compression? I’ll check it mañana.
Make sure the breather port by the oil filler is clear into the engine. Run a tight hose directly from the breather to the top plate of one of the carbs-passenger side is best for your Kadron setup. You need a connector, metal if possible with as large an internal diameter as will still allow tight connection of the breather hose. A gentle turn only good quality hose (NOT heater hose from a watercooler) to allow a tight seal-put clamps on both ends. What you have now is called a scavenger system- I used them a lot in the Baja cars I built to stop the pressure caused by blow-by which you have now created. By putting a negative pressure source on the crankcase all blow-by is re-burnt in the motor plus the water in it cools the motor and lowers octane reqs. Oil leaks should be stopped unless grossly overfilled case. Think O-rings on the shuttle booster. Buena suerte.
PS-if the one vent hose is not enough, do the same thing to the valve covers-run the hose up through the engine seal and tap into the air filter tops. Old Baja trick, even kept the stroker/big bores from leaking plus they ran better, cleaner (helped plug life a lot), and got better mileage. All good things. Also, break in the rings with a cheaper straight weight oil and do not drive a steady speed-go up and down for 5-600 miles. Then switch to the good stuff. Find the valve problem fast- it WILL tear up the engine.
there’s nothing to say thanks for… you know how to get to our house if you need anything.
so bad the problem still there on your engine, if you need help you know where to go.
everybody in the house were worry about you, they were asking me if i knew something about you guys. so, tonight im gonna translate them what you wrote.
try to come around when you drive to the south! we’re gonne be waiting you with some home made bread and a cold beer..
send our regards to angela and bode.
Glad you guys got up and running with such a quick rebuild. I’m sure you’ll fine tune the remaining issues without too much trouble.
That last picture with you guys gathered around the hatch, Jason, you could be Wayne Coyne’s (Flaming Lips) brother!
hey jason recheck your valve adjustments and check the adjuster screws where they contact the valve stem , they sometimes mushroom and require redressing. seat your rings by driving up to 55 and backing down to 50 and repeat about 10 times later and have fun mark d
If the noise doesn’t go away after checking the valves then think about looking at your wrist pin circlips, I had one come out on my first rebuild. Now I only use teflon buttons.
Jason,
When I did my last rebuild it made funny sounds on the outside but was quieter than the old engine on the inside of the car. Over time it went away. I did have to mess with the timing alot to get it in a place where the power was just right. It never seems to be in the exact same place. Try fiddling with the timing. You could also re-torque the heads. I have found that they tend to take a lot of finagling to get right. Sometimes you turn and turn and it feels tight but doesn’t seem to get to the right point for awhile.
One other thing that has happened in the past is that the nuts that hold the rocker shaft have come loose or were not torqued properly to begin with. Other than that, what else could it be?
[quote Rusty]Find the valve problem fast- it WILL tear up the engine.[/quote] yep, can confirm this: I had a valve break off on a VW, fall into the head, smash the piston, break in turn the piston rod, which came through the block… A real mess, which no engine rebuilder wanted to take for parts.
My fathet in law says “check out the distributor”
I agree, the last photo pretty much sums it all up after a long day working on the bus. Jason, your expression says it all. Did you find your noise yet? My Gerty did this to me not too long ago on a road trip. Loud valve noise. I had just adjusted them about 800 miles earlier. I pulled the covers off and they felt fine warm, but an adjustment nut had fallen off of #1 exhaust. I put it back on and tightened it and milked her to the campsite, only another 10 miles, being sure not to lug and checked it again in the morning. Sure enough the #1 exhaust was really loose. I got lucky. No damage.
Safe travels ahead!